Research Trip Phase IV: Colonial Singapore

I’m leaving for home tomorrow and have finished with the last phase of the research, a visit to Colonial-era buildings in Singapore. The British landed here in 1819 and “left” (do they ever really leave?) in the 1960s (apart from a hiatus during the Japanese occupation of World War II), so anything built during that time is technically “colonial,” but I’m mostly interested in the first half of that period.

There are a lot of beautiful buildings to see. Pictured above is the Istana, built in the 19th Century for the British Governors of the Colony and still in use as the office building for the President and Prime Minister. There are also a number of other government buildings that survive from the period as well as private residences, hotels, shophouses and so on. I’ve photographed a good many of these buildings (mostly shared on Facebook in photo albums) and have acquired a map (reproduction) dating from the period.

Whereas Phase III of the research was spent in the library, Phase IV, lasting for the last five days, as been all about walking. My fitbit tells me I’ve averaged about 12 miles a day over the period (15 miles today) as I’ve explored on foot such neighborhoods as Chinatown, Tiong Bahru, Little India, the Civic Center, and Marina Bay (which didn’t exist during Colonial times, as it is all built on landfill created in the 1970s). Although walking probably wasn’t a big part of the lives of my characters (they would have gotten around by rickshaw, buggy, or motor car), seeing the city this way has been a big help for me to understand the city’s scale.

Museums have also been a big help. Today I saw the Singapore Gallery, an exhibit hosted by the Urban Redevelopment Authority that really shows the transformation of the city state. The National Museum, too, which shows Singapore’s history, was also a big help. Even the National Gallery (an art museum built into two late colonial buildings) helped by showing art of the period I’m interested in.

It remains to be seen whether I can bring the colonial era to life on the page in the way I hope to, but the trip has certainly given me the tools I need.

Research Trip Phase III: National Library of Singapore

It may seem as though this trip was just an excuse to be a tourist. But this week was hard-core research week as I spent all day Monday-Thursday in the 11th Floor Reference Room (Southeast Asian Collection) of the National Library of Singapore. I’ve had a blast reading old texts and contemporary histories relevant to my story, and the library is a beautiful space that has made this work a pleasure.

The library offers some wonderful services to researchers. A few weeks ago, I emailed some specific questions I wanted to look into and they emailed back with a long list of resources I might be interested in, so that was my starting point. When I exhausted that list, I found some more, including some that were on microfilm or in digital form, and kept going. I was amazed at how much material I got through. (I may pop in there next week before I leave to take a look at one more thing.)

I took about twenty typed pages of notes, single-spaced, and have a much better feel for the subject than I did before. How I thought I was going to be able to write this book without doing this work, I don’t know.

The library building is new. On a bit of a meta note, my novel’s main character also visits the library to do some research (the same research I’m doing!), but — and this is a little problematic for my purposes — she does it BEFORE this building was built. So I have to rely on pictures of the old building and my imagination, plus some educated guesses. (The archives she’s looking for aren’t digitized, for example, but they are on microfilm, a technology that’s been around a very long time.)

So Phase III is done, and I’m beginning the last phase before heading home. More about that soon.

Research Trip Phase II: Bali

It remains to be seen how relevant Bali is to my project, but it is at least tangentially important, so that was my reason for visiting. This was my fourth trip to Bali in 39 years, each one very different.

The first time I came here was on my backpacking trip in 1978 after the completion of my Peace Corps service in South Korea. Getting to Bali was quite an ordeal back then, at least the way we did it: boat from Singapore to Jakarta (which itself was a pain, involving a ferry to a nearby Indonesian island, then waiting overnight for the larger passenger ship, for which we had paid “deck class” allowing us to sleep on mats on the deck); a bus to Jogjakarta (which I loved); a train to Surabaya; then a ferry to Bali. I don’t remember where we stayed, but I think it was in a cheap hotel near the Nusa Dua beaches. I remember it being uncrowded and idyllic.

The next time I visited Bali was at Christmastime in 1988, more than a decade later. That was different because I was living in Singapore at the time and earning plenty of money as a lawyer, so travel was no problem, but I was meeting up with a friend who was backpacking, so the accommodations were still pretty primitive. We stayed, I think, part of the time in Ubud, the arts city in central Bali, and part of the time on the black sand beaches of the east coast. That was also a pretty good trip and because my buddy was more of an adventurous traveler than I, we some pretty interesting things (a tooth-cutting ceremony, a cremation, etc.)

The next time was five years later as I was preparing to move back to the US and make a big career change. The Four Seasons had just opened a resort on Jimbaran Bay and I was able to get a villa for a reasonable price. Luxury! I didn’t leave the resort.

But this time I chose Kuta, which is the most crowded, noisiest, nastiest part of the island. My resort was fine–beautiful gardens and right on the beach–but stepping out into the “town” was not enjoyable. But I picked it because of the terrorist bombing that occurred in Kuta in 2002, killing over 200 people. Shown here is a picture of a memorial to the victims. (That’s the part that has a connection to my book project.)

But beside that, I wanted to do some things I had not done on my earlier visits, including a drive up to Kintamani, which is the viewing spot for Gunung Batur (pictured above), Bali’s active volcano. Along the way, we stopped in Ubud, which feels more commercial now than it used to, but still I enjoyed visiting a family’s painting studio and gallery as well as a cooperative woodcarving studio. And then there was the visit to a coffee plantation where I tasted several different flavored coffees and herbal teas along with a cup of coffee luwak, the famous Bali coffee made from beans “harvested” from civet cat poop. Can’t say I loved it, but at least I gave it a try. We also stopped at some terraced rice fields, but that wasn’t anything more than a photo opportunity.

The last part of the trip was the most disappointing–a visit to Tanah Lot, a temple on the west coast that I thought was going to be a spiritual experience. Wrong. It was crawling with tourists, not to mention shops selling junk to those tourists. One is supposed to watch the sunset there, but we left long before that.

I think I regret my decision to stay in Kuta. Bali is a beautiful place, but Kuta is simply overrun. If you get a chance to visit the island, try for someplace undiscovered, or at least off the beaten path.

Research Trip Phase I: Singapore Orchard Road and Botanic Gardens

As I mentioned in my previous post, I’m currently in Southeast Asia on a research trip for my novel in progress. The first phase, now complete, was mostly a walk down memory lane. I stayed in a hotel in the Orchard Road area, where I lived for many years and took extensive walks (I don’t think my FitBit believed me when I hit 25,000 steps the first day until I followed that up with 35,000 steps the next) around the neighborhood and beyond.

I wanted to take a look at my old apartment buildings, but the last one I lived in has been torn down and replaced by a different modern highrise. That was disorienting, and I wasn’t even sure I was on the right street. Pictured here is the second building I lived in, affectionately referred to (by me, anyway) as the stack of nickels.

I also visited the Botanic Gardens, which are truly amazing, and spent a lot of time taking pictures of the amazing flora.  I visited shops, restaurants, and food centers I used to frequent. I breathed in the hot, humid air, got soaked in sudden rain showers, became frustrated with my fellow pedestrians, etc. — just like the old days.

The purpose was to refresh my memory and sensory recall as I attempt to bring the book’s setting to life for readers. I feel much better equipped to do that now than I did before the trip.

Research: No substitute for being there.

When I began work on my current project–a novel set primarily in Singapore–I didn’t think I’d need to travel there to complete the book. After all, I lived in the country from 1983-1989 and 1990-1993 and had made several other visits before and after those periods. I felt that I knew the country pretty well. So I plowed ahead with the writing.

But the deeper I got into the story, the more I realized that there was a lot I didn’t know, or didn’t remember. For one thing, the story I’m telling takes place both long before and somewhat after the years I lived in Singapore, and if anything remains constant in the country it is rapid change. For another, it is one thing to remember your sensory perceptions and try to describe them. It’s something else again to describe what you’re feeling at the moment. The heat. The humidity. The smells. The crowds. Did I mention the heat and humidity?

So sometime last year I decided I would have to return to Singapore for a research trip. I know–hardship, right? Well, yes and no. I’m happy to be in the tropics during January, that’s for sure. But the planning process was stressful–booking flights and hotels, making various arrangements–and expensive. (If I hadn’t paid for everything in advance, I might have bagged it at the last minute.) Now that I’ve been here for a couple of days, though, I’m so glad I made the trip. The Internet is a wonderful thing, but I don’t think I could have written the book without making this visit.

My research is divided into three parts. The first part is basically done now. I’ve spent the last several days in a hotel near where I used to live. I’ve gone back to areas I used to spend time, and I’ve walked all over this part of town to really reinforce the experience of living here. I’m taking notes as to my impressions and the sensory details, and all of this will be invaluable when I get home to dig back into the manuscript. The second part is a side trip to Bali, where I’m headed on Monday. I’ve visited Bali several times in the past, and it’s only tangentially relevant to the novel, but I can’t deny that I liked the idea of resting and relaxing by the ocean for a few days. (It’s the rainy season there, but I don’t care.) The third part, and the most significant, will happen when I return from Bali. I’ll be staying in a different part of town, closer to some of the locations for scenes in the book. I’ve enlisted the help of the National Library for some actual research, so I’ll be spending a couple of days there, also. And I’ve got some meetings lined up that I hope will be helpful.

I guess there’s a fourth part, too. Chinese New Year will coincide with the last few days of my stay, and that holiday figures prominently in my story, so the timing couldn’t be better.

All in all, despite the stress of planning and travel, I’m very glad I made the trip, and the book will be much better for it.


Everywhere Stories Contributor Spotlight: Tim Weed

Finalist for the International Book Award

Contributor Tim Weed’s story “The Money Pill” is set in Cuba. It is one of 20 stories in Volume I of Everywhere Stories: Short Fiction from a Small Planet. Published in 2014, the book is available from Press 53,, and Barnes & Noble.

Tim Weed’s fiction has appeared in Colorado ReviewGulf CoastSixfold, and many other journals and anthologies. He is the winner of a Writer’s Digest Popular Fiction Award and a Best Travel Writing Solas Award, and his collected stories have been shortlisted for the New Rivers Press Many Voices Project, the Autumn House Fiction Prize, and the Lewis-Clark Press Discovery Award. Based in Vermont, Tim is a lecturer in the MFA Writing program at Western Connecticut State University and a featured expert for National Geographic Expeditions in Cuba, Spain, and Patagonia. Will Poole’s Island, Tim’s first novel, was published in 2014.

Tim Weed’s comment on “The Money Pill”—One of the somber joys of being a fiction writer is that you can insert your characters into difficult and/or morally dubious situations without having to suffer or inflict the real-world consequences of their actions. “The Money Pill” grew out of a series of trips I made to the eastern part of Cuba in the earliest years of the 21st century. Writing it was, in part, a process of taking several jotted-down interactions and playing them out to their logical conclusions. On a deeper level—over the many drafts it took to get the story into an intelligible form—certain themes began to emerge that captured something essential, for me at least, about Cuba and the wealthy superpower that is its close and yet utterly estranged neighbor.

Your Writing Resolutions for 2017

It’s a brand new year. You’ve made some resolutions, am I right? And if you’re a writer, as I am, your resolutions might look something like this:

1. Finish more [stories, essays, poems].

2. Figure out where to send them.


I’m here to help. When I first started sending out stories in about 2004, I had no idea where to send them. I dutifully read some of the literary magazines I could find, but I barely knew a Ploughshare from a Conjunction. And my method of choosing where to submit was pretty scattershot. Then I discovered the idea of dividing the literary magazine world into tiers and only submitting (simultaneously) within the tiers.

I decided to create a ranking system that would let me group magazines by their quality–or at least by some measure of quality, since quality is ultimately subjective. I chose the annual Pushcart Prize anthology as my measure–among the major annual anthologies, its selection process seems the most transparent, plus it excludes the “slicks” from its recognition–and created a formula to award points for prizes awarded and special mentions listed over a ten-year period.

The result was a big list of magazines that I posted on my blog and some people found it useful. Later, I added separate lists for non-fiction and poetry. And then I added hyperlinks so writers could jump directly from my rankings to the websites of the magazines they were interested in. Now I frequently hear that writers find the list indispensable.  I’m glad to hear it.

Here, to help you with your submissions in 2017, are my annual literary magazine rankings:

2017 Perpetual Folly Literary Magazine Rankings: Fiction, Nonfiction, and Poetry.